Monday, November 10, 2008

Ceramic Village & Evening Cruise, Ha Long Bay, 11/7

Thursday afternoon brought an urgent message from Long that there was a substantial threat of heavy rain on Thursday evening, and possible failure of the dikes protecting Hanoi. Picturing New Orleans, I emailed the students and told them about the threat, and to stock up on non-perishable food and water. Even if something happened we would be safe, as we are in one of the higher sections of Hanoi, and everyone is on at least the second floor. However the power might be out and the stores closed. No rains came on Thursday evening or Friday morning. I found out some further information on the threat. A strong storm system was headed straight for Hanoi, and was expected to drop 8 - 12 inches of additional rain. With the 15 - 25 inches that fell last week the Red River was high (although not at flood stage), and the ground was saturated. The authorities were afraid that the added rain might threaten the dikes, so sent 1000 troops to monitor them and make emergency repairs if need be. We held class as usual on Friday morning, and by the time we finished the sun was out. I found out later that the storm system had turned south into the South China Sea before it made landfall. So we continued with our plans for the Ha Long Bay trip. I guess they aren't any better at forecasting weather over here than we are at home!
Our first stop on the trip was at Ba Trang, the Ceramic Village. It is another of the trade villages where nearly everyone is involved in the same industry. The tour buses stop at a large shop/factory where you can observe the pottery making process. The third floor (left) is where women sit at tables decorating pottery before it is fired.

The fourth floor (right and below) is where they trim the raw pieces after they come out of the molds. The students are a bit distracted at the moment, as Jill, who is a bit blurry in the picture, is recovering from almost tripping over a low stool that was up against a pile of unfired bowls. This is not a note on Jill's coordination, but rather a comment on how little attention the shops put toward making it easy for tourists to observe.

The fifth floor (below) was the mold pouring section. Cat said the clay slurry is thin to allow the air bubbles to escape before it hardens.













When you make your way down to the second floor, you arrive at two floors of shop. Here Tom is wondering how he can get this piece in his carry-on luggage?

Most of the rest of the main street is devoted to retail shops. The factories are on back streets, and not set up for tours. Some use electric kilns, but many still use charcoal fired kilns. Many of the ceramic items found in Hanoi shops come from Ba Trang. The shop that Sarah and Katie are exiting claims to be wholesale, but the prices are about the same everywhere, so it is a come-on. Bargaining is encouraged.



Molly is advising Michael on the best quality pipes, while Tom, Pam, and Cat are contemplating the existential pleasures of pottery!



Molly, Sarah, and Josh needed a rest after their purchases.








We continued on to Ha Long Bay City where we were to spend the night. Long surprised us by treating us to a dinner cruise on the same boat we will be on tomorrow.

It was a cool and overcast evening, but otherwise beautiful. No rain! The seafood dinner was excellent, including stuffed crab.






Sitting with Julia and Josh are Pam's mother, Harley, and sister Ariel.



After dinner most moved to the upper deck to enjoy the evening and the lights of the city.








Katherine and her father, Bill.




I caught Long below playing with his latest toy. He has a new one every time I see him!

















Everyone had a great time. Thanks Long!

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