Hue, 9/27
Our second morning in Hue we walked to the shore of the Perfume River and boarded a Dragon Boat for the trip up-river to the Thien Mu Pagoda, founded in 1601.
River boats are a family affair. Below the mother watches the helm.
While the daughter charms the tourists (us).
The father was at the helm for 
most of the trip, while mother tried to sell us stuff, and even the family dog got into the act. 
It took us about 45 minutes to get to the pagoda. Shown at right is the seven story tower, built in 1845. Each of the seven stories is dedicated to a Buddha who appeared in human form. It has now become the symbol of Hue.
Inside the pagoda there is a pavilion with a tablet dating from 1715 mounted on the back of a large marble turtle. The tablet represents knowledge, and the turtle longevity. It is considered good luck to touch the turtle.
Inside the main shrine is a beautiful alter.
Apprentice monks start at an early age, but are not forced to stay. They get their education while working at the pagoda. When they turn 18 they are given the choice of staying and becoming a monk for life, or leaving as a free person.
This pagoda has special significance, as it was the home of the venerable monk Thich Quan Duc. In 1963 the Buddhists in Hue demonstrated against the repression of the Diem regime. As a result, Diem cracked down even harder. This led Duc to travel to Saigon in the car shown above, stop in an intersection, have his associates pour gasoline over him while he sat in the lotus position, then calmly lighting himself. Most of you have seen the picture of him burning, with the car in the background with the hood raised. They raised the hood to simulate car trouble to give them time to prepare for the self-immolation before the police intervened. Madam Nhu, Diem's wife, referred to the self-immolation as a "barbecue party." Her actions were one more thing that led to the overthrow and assassination of the Diem brothers later in the year. She possibly escaped the same fate herself by being overseas at the time.
Inside the pagoda there is a pavilion with a tablet dating from 1715 mounted on the back of a large marble turtle. The tablet represents knowledge, and the turtle longevity. It is considered good luck to touch the turtle.
Inside the main shrine is a beautiful alter.
Apprentice monks start at an early age, but are not forced to stay. They get their education while working at the pagoda. When they turn 18 they are given the choice of staying and becoming a monk for life, or leaving as a free person.
This pagoda has special significance, as it was the home of the venerable monk Thich Quan Duc. In 1963 the Buddhists in Hue demonstrated against the repression of the Diem regime. As a result, Diem cracked down even harder. This led Duc to travel to Saigon in the car shown above, stop in an intersection, have his associates pour gasoline over him while he sat in the lotus position, then calmly lighting himself. Most of you have seen the picture of him burning, with the car in the background with the hood raised. They raised the hood to simulate car trouble to give them time to prepare for the self-immolation before the police intervened. Madam Nhu, Diem's wife, referred to the self-immolation as a "barbecue party." Her actions were one more thing that led to the overthrow and assassination of the Diem brothers later in the year. She possibly escaped the same fate herself by being overseas at the time.
The monument shown here is the burial vault for the ashes of monks who have died while members of the pagoda. They don't have to worry about grave robbers here, as the monks don't have many worldly possessions.
Everyone relaxed durin
g the trip back down the river.
Everyone relaxed durin
g the trip back down the river.
posted by Tom Jewell at
1:37 AM
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